French Tarts in Richmond — Strawberry & Lemon at Vogue Cafe

A French fruit tart is a study in contrast: crisp pâte sucrée, cool pastry cream, fruit at its peak. At Vogue Cafe in Steveston Village, two versions sit in the glass case by the register — strawberry and lemon — each made in-house and priced at $10.

What the case holds

The strawberry tart ($10) arrives on a thin shell of sweet shortcrust. A layer of vanilla pastry cream anchors halved berries, brushed with a light apricot glaze. The crust stays crisp because the cream is piped cold and the tart is assembled to order from components held separately. A small chocolate plaque reading "VOGUE CAFE" rests on top — the same one you see in photos of the counter.

The lemon tart ($10) leans sharper. The same pâte sucrée holds a curd thickened with egg yolk and butter, bright with zest and just enough sugar to balance. No meringue, no whipped cream — just the curd, the crust, and a dusting of icing sugar. Both tarts are cut from 9-inch rounds; a slice is three bites if you're polite, two if you're not.

How they're built

Pâte sucrée differs from pie dough: butter, icing sugar, egg, and flour creamed together, not rubbed. The sugar tenderizes the gluten so the crust snaps rather than flakes. It bakes blind with weights, then gets a thin wash of beaten egg white to seal the pores before the cream goes in. That seal is why the bottom doesn't sog out by afternoon.

Pastry cream is a starch-thickened custard — cornstarch or flour, milk, yolks, sugar, vanilla — cooked to a boil so the starch activates fully. Lemon curd skips the starch; yolks, butter, sugar, and juice emulsify over gentle heat until they coat a spoon. Both chill under plastic wrap pressed to the surface.

Strawberries are hulled and halved lengthwise so they sit flat. The glaze — apricot jam thinned with a splash of water and strained — is brushed on warm. It sets to a sheer shine that protects the berries from drying in the case.

When to order

The cafe opens at 10:30am and the tarts are usually stocked by 11am. They sell through by late afternoon on weekends. If you want a specific one, call (604) 370-4444 and ask them to hold a slice — they'll do it.

Brunch runs until 3pm. A tart with a latte ($6) or an Americano ($5) makes a lighter finish than the sweet crêpes ($14). After 3pm, the same case feeds the dessert crowd. A glass of La Vieille Ferme rosé ($11 for 6oz) cuts the sugar cleanly.

Where to eat them

The dining room has deep-red walls, wood tables, and a small bar. The covered side patio runs along the building — red-checkered tablecloths, greenery walls, string lights overhead. A dog bowl sits by the front door. The front windows have bar-height tables facing No. 1 Road. All three spots work; the side patio stays cool longest.

What people ask

Are the tarts gluten-free?

No. The crust is wheat flour. Call to ask about other dietary needs — the kitchen can tell you what's in each component.

Can I buy a whole tart?

Not on the regular menu. For a special occasion (birthday, anniversary, business dinner), mention it when you book the private dining room (7–10 guests) or an event enquiry (10+). The owner arranges custom desserts by advance request.

Do you serve them warm?

Never. A fruit tart is a cold dessert. The pastry cream and curd set in the fridge; heating breaks them.

What's the difference between these and the sweet crêpes?

Crêpes are thin buttery pancakes cooked to order, filled with Nutella, caramel, or Suzette sauce. Tarts are baked shortcrust with set fillings. Different textures, different occasions — order both if the table can't decide.

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Walk in at 12251 No 1 Rd #130, Steveston Village, or reserve online. The case is right by the door — you'll see them.